What is 3D Puff embroidery?

3d puff embroidery

The 3D puff embroideries are made up of two layers of fabric. One is the top layer which is usually a polyester material and the other one is the bottom layer which is a nonwoven polyester material. Both these layers are fused together using heat and pressure. After the fusion process, the top layer becomes soft and flexible while the bottom layer remains hard and strong.

This makes it possible to create a stable structure when you apply the design onto the cap. If you have ever tried to stitch logos on a hat before, then you will understand how difficult it can be to do so since the stitching does not hold well against the surface of the hat. But with 3D puff embroidering, you get to enjoy the benefits of both the materials.

You can easily stitch any type of logo or pattern on the top layer and then transfer it onto the nonwoven layer. Once the transfer is done, the top layer gets melted away and the logo stays firmly attached to the nonwoven layer thus creating a very durable product. Using this technique, you can make hats with different types of fabrics like cotton, nylon, etc.

 

Digitizing Technique for 3D Foam Models

For this project I have chosen a very light weight fabric which has a nice drape and does not require any stabilizer. The fabric is a lightweight cotton/polyester mix in a beautiful floral print.

• Take your time and do a few tests on several machines to locate the one that best suits your desired speed and quality output.
• The stitch density in 3D puff embroidery is often high, thus delicate and slippery fabrics should be avoided. In contrast to towels, caps have a more durable fabric since their loft fades and the design appears to be far away, creating a compelling effect.
• It is highly advised that sharp needles be used for perforations, therefore sharpen your needles before using them.
• If the foam is excessively hard, it will be difficult to remove the excess material after the stitching is completed. It's important to keep the color of foam in mind while selecting a foam color, as well as to keep the embroidery in mind.

Digitize Model

I did not want to use a stabilizer because it would have taken away from the drape of the fabric. Instead, I decided to digitize my model directly onto the fabric itself. This was achieved by first tracing out the shape of the flower petals and leaves onto the fabric using an inkjet printer. Then I cut out the shapes and placed them onto the fabric. Finally I stitched around each shape using a sewing machine.

I chose to stitch the flowers in a simple straight line rather than curving them around the edges of the petal. This is because I wanted the stitches to appear crisp and sharp. The finished piece looks great!

A guide for how to digitize 3D puff embroidery.

I’ve been working on a project that has me stitching some 3d puffs, and I wanted to share my process with you all. This is not an exact science, but it does have a few steps that are repeatable. If you do this right, your results will be great!

Because the needle stitch slices the foam every time it penetrates, satin fill is the only material that can prevent the foam from pushing down on the stitches and causing them to fall out from the inside of the item.

1. Use a 1.7mm run stitch to secure the foam to the fabric.
2. In order to close the open ends, digitize a narrow column across the open ends so that it helps to cut the foam and prevents it from being poked or lifted by stitches at the end cover edges.
3. As you cut and cover the foam, apply an underlay with stitch spacing of 1.5 - 2.0mm to stabilize it.
4. Satin covers should be thicker than normal due to variations in the thickness, height, and color of the foam used in their construction. Density must be between 0.2 and 0.4 mm when using auto-spacing off the satin.
5. Pull compensation should be increased to 0.3 - 0.5mm depending on the type of foam utilized.
6. Make sure the sticthes are tied off properly.
7. Pull the foam away from the design when you've finished embroidering.